From the Guinness Lake to the Valley Deep: Hiking Lough Tay to Lough Dan
Welcome back to Hiking in Ireland!
If there is one image that defines the Wicklow Mountains for many visitors, it’s the view over Lough Tay. Known colloquially as the "Guinness Lake" due to its dark, peaty water contrasted against the brilliant white sand on its northern shore (imported by the Guinness family who previously owned the adjacent Luggala Estate), it is a stunning sight.
Most people just stop their cars, snap a photo from the road, and drive on. But they are missing the real magic.
Today, we are lacing up our boots to take a classic Wicklow valley walk. We are starting high above Lough Tay at the famous "Pier Gates" and descending into the wild valley to reach its quieter, more secluded sibling: Lough Dan.
This hike offers a perfect blend of iconic Irish scenery and the rugged solitude that makes Wickow so special.
The Artwork: Visualizing the Valley
Before we get into the trail details, let's set the scene with some artwork inspired by this specific route. This is a landscape of dramatic contrasts, shifting light, and deep greens and browns.
Trail Basics: What You Need to Know
This isn't a mountain summit hike; it's a valley traverse. While you won't be bagging a peak, don't underestimate the terrain. The Wicklow valleys can be just as challenging—and boggy—as the tops.
Distance: Approximately 8–10km return (depending on how far along Lough Dan's shore you explore).
Time: Allow 3 to 4 hours.
Difficulty: Moderate. The initial descent is steep, and the valley floor can be very wet and uneven.
Start/End Point: The "Pier Gates" (the stone entrance gates to Luggala Estate) on the R759 road.
Gear: Waterproof hiking boots are non-negotiable here. The valley between the lakes is notoriously boggy, even in summer. Bring layers, rain gear, and plenty of water.
The Trailhead: The Pier Gates Car Park
The adventure begins at one of the most photographed spots in Wicklow. The trailhead is located on the R759, often referred to as the Sally Gap Road.
You will recognize the spot instantly by the striking white stone pillars that mark the entrance to the Luggala Estate.
Parking Tip: There is no official tarmac car park here. Parking consists of a long lay-by opposite the gates and along the roadside verges. On a sunny weekend, this spot is chaotic by 11 a.m. Arrive early (before 9:30 a.m.) to secure a safe spot and enjoy the viewpoint before the crowds arrive. Be mindful not to block the estate gates or the road itself—farm machinery and emergency vehicles need access.
The Hike: A Tale of Two Lakes
Stage 1: The High Vista and the Descent
Before you start walking, take a moment at the road edge (safely) to absorb the view. Lough Tay sits below you, framed by the steep cliffs of Luggala mountain on the right and the rolling slopes of Djouce mountain behind you. The white sand beach looks almost tropical against the dark water, a bizarre but beautiful anomaly in the Irish landscape.
To begin the hike, you are essentially heading down into the valley that cradles the lake. There are a few ways to do this. Some hikers tackle the very steep, rough sheep tracks directly below the road near the gates.
However, for a clearer path, many walkers head slightly east along the road (carefully!) to join a spur of the Wicklow Way that descends more gradually toward the valley floor, eventually meeting up with the Cloghoge River.
As you descend, the perspective shifts dramatically. The grand vista from the road is replaced by the intimate feeling of being enclosed by the hills. The noise of the road fades away, replaced by the sound of wind in the heather and the rushing of the river.
Stage 2: The Cloghoge Valley
Once you reach the valley floor, you have left the "Guinness Lake" behind you. You are now in the wilder section connecting the two bodies of water. The route roughly follows the Cloghoge River, which flows out of Lough Tay and eventually feeds into Lough Dan.
This is quintessential Wicklow terrain. The path here varies from clear, rocky tracks to patches of deep, sucking bog. This is where your waterproof boots earn their keep. You’ll be walking through a landscape dominated by rusty-brown bracken, vibrant purple heather (in late summer), and the brilliant yellow pop of gorse flowers, which smell faintly of coconut on warm days.
Keep an eye out for local wildlife. Red deer are common on the slopes above, and you might spot a peregrine falcon hunting near the cliffs.
Stage 3: Arriving at Lough Dan
After about 4 kilometers of valley walking, the landscape opens up further, and Lough Dan comes into view.
Lough Dan is different from Tay. It’s longer, shallower, and feels far more remote because it isn't accessible by a main public road. It doesn't have the dramatic, dark moody feel of Tay; instead, it offers a sense of profound tranquility.
The trail generally leads you toward the northern shore of the lake. Depending on recent rainfall and the time of year, the area right by the lake shore can be marshy.
This is your turnaround point. Find a dry rock, break out the thermos of tea and sandwiches, and enjoy the silence. Unlike the busy viewpoint you started at, you will often have Lough Dan entirely to yourself. It’s the perfect place to disconnect.
When you are ready, retrace your steps back up the valley, preparing your legs for the final, steep ascent back up to the Pier Gates and your car.
Final Thoughts and Responsible Hiking
The hike from Lough Tay to Lough Dan captures the very best of the Wicklow Mountains National Park without requiring a strenuous summit climb. It takes you from one of Ireland's most famous views into one of its quietest corners.
As always when hiking in Ireland, please practice Leave No Trace principles.
Take all your rubbish home with you—there are no bins in the valley.
Keep dogs on leashes. This is active farmland with sheep, and it is also a wildlife habitat with ground-nesting birds during the spring and summer.
Stick to the established tracks to avoid eroding the fragile peat landscape.
Enjoy the valley, keep your boots dry, and happy hiking!
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